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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.